About a month ago, on our way down south, we drove past an area south of Muleje called Bahia de Concepcion (in the Living the Dream episode: https://www.wheelsonthebus.ca/living-the-dream/) and purposely did not stop, because we wanted to leave some longer term beach locations for the trek back up north, that we thought would be warmer on the way home than on the way down. Everyone we’ve met and talked too so far, has raved about this area and we were pretty pumped to hang out for a week, especially after the shithole we were at the night before!
For many RV’ers, this area is the ultimate Baja destination as you can boat, kayak, SUP, fish, swim, snorkel – you name it. Although there are pay RV campgrounds in and slightly south of Muleje (north of the bay), there are about 12 separate boondocking beaches that line the bay – over a 30 km distance. Some of them, good for big rigs and some are not. We had pre-picked either Santispac or El Requeson to boondock and since El Requeson came first on the highway, that is the one we picked. This place is pretty cool! Probably the most picturesque of them all (although, they are all amazing), at low tide, a sand bar appears and you can walk over to a small island! This is the video: Playa El Requeson
Bahia de Concepcion in all its beauty. Indescribable.
We were finally able to have campfires again; however, it is a challenge finding firewood. We actually found a large piece of driftwood on the island, in the kayak, and towed it in the water, behind limpy back to camp!
Never a day goes by at this beach where we aren’t asked to buy fish/shrimp/scallops out of some Mexican’s trunk – and we really hit the jackpot this time, when the catch of the day was halibut! 1kg for $17 – where else can you buy 1kg of HALIBUT for $17???!). We combined it with a beef rib (for a surf and turf) and that dinner was a #guyfierei flavourtown satisfaction!
In the past couple weeks though, we have completely mastered our own beef & shrimp Taco’s AND Salsa/guacamole – we probably eat our own tacos about every 3rd day. I’m pretty sure that we have eaten our combined body weights in corn chips and fresh tortilla’s on this trip, OMG! They are so good. How will I eat shitty Canadian Taco chips ever again? Also, Todd has perfected the margarita – although we were pretty sure he had it mastered a long time ago, its now off the rails, seconded by the Tequila sunrise, which we both have regained a new love for (especially when you are offered fresh squeezed OJ) to go with! I’m sure we sound like drunks, and for the most part, I wouldn’t disagree. The tequila is so amazing and the beer is cheaper than water. So when in Rome….. But we have been pretty diligent at taking at least one day off a week. Honestly it is hard to not have a drink, because we usually have a new neighbor, or a certain day of the week or an amazing activity we did/saw (like dolphins) or halibut that we need to have a toast or a happy hour cheers!
Muleje is a very cute little town/city in a valley, with a river running through it. We took an afternoon touring around town and we found a couple of cool things:
– cemetery (it was so bizarre to see some of the massive gravestones) an old jail (was turned in to a museum, complete with original cells and toilets
Inside of the jaol courtyard and doors to the cells.
We love an old jaol – check out our jaol tour from our Australia blog from 2014 – http://thosegirlstravel.blogspot.com/2014/05/like-sands-through-hourglass-these-are.html) and we also ended up at another Mission church full of history that overlooked the river and a weir that we could actually walk across. Not super exciting, but still cool: weir in mulege
A few amazing treats, well the best treat actually at El Requeson, was kayaking with dolphins! Yes, that’s what I said. Dolphins. We also used limpy to kayak around the island and find a place to snorkel – there were lots of fishies to see and so much plankton – now we know why there are so many whales in the area. On our 3rd nite, Todd saw something flashing or twinkling along shore and to about 8 feet into the water – turns out, this was bioluminescence! It was cool. Of course, with all the amazing things we have seen or done, there are always shitty things, such as:
- Update on limpy: by day 4, she was fully deflated, coming apart on all her seams – we had to leave her behind.
- Todd stepped on a Ray tail – he was not a happy camper. Part of his foot went numb, luckily we had pain killers and rum, a cure for all painful sea creature injuries
- We noticed this orange scum in the bay on a couple of the “no wind” days. We googled it and can’t quite figure out what it was (most likely some kind of algae), but we called it whale sperm. The second time we went snorkelling, we ended up in an unending pool of whale sperm and by the time we got out of it, and back to shore, we were both dry heaving over the smell of it on our skinny suits!
All in all though, we continued to ask ourselves on a daily basis during our stay at El Requeson, are we really here? How did we get here? Do we have to leave? Why is know one else here?